17th Century Descriptions of Vietnam

Descriptions of the Kingdom of Tonkin-an account by Samuel Baron
Only a few of the poorer people will attend to strangers, or are forced otherwise for a livelihoo. He notes how the Tonqueenese were ravished with admiration, when he showed them his Atlas, and maps and structure of the world.
Tonqueenese are much degenerated, yet it cannot be denied, but the strangers at the first entrance into this country, had, in many respects, better usage than at present; but not so, as to permit themselves to play with a foreigner the good companion, at this time they keep their distance to all strangers, making but small account with them. (So in comparison to the Cochin-Chineses the Tonquenese were not as welcoming and warm towards outsider, they were more careful and suspicious, and less giving)

This country is for the most part low and flat, not unlike the united provinces , especially for its moats and banks. To the north-east of this kingdom lies the province of Canton; to the west it is bounded by the kingdom of Laos and Bowes; to the north it borders on two other provinces of China, Yunnan and Guangxi, and to the south and south-east is Cochin-China. This country is very temperate due to the many rivers and rain that generally fall in the months of May, June, July and August, which moistens the ground but cause no fresh breezes at all; on the contrary, July and August is insufferably hot. The climate is temperate and wholesome, from September until March, and sometime very cold in January and February; though frost and snow are never seen. The country would be plentiful in fruits, were there not so many inhabitants, who live by rice chiefly, finding greater necessity to cultivate what ground they have with that grain. There are rivers that are swarm with bots and large barks, which make it very commodious for traders: indeed in this country grows neither corn nor whine, which is not occasioned by the want of rains, for both of them require rather dry than wet ground; but by reason the inhabitants do not much care for them, as being ignorant of their goodness, and therefore do not plant them. This kingdom is not much bigger than Portugal, but four times the number in population. There are several islands in the bay of Tonqueen in which ships may pass.
Towards the north-west is a fair bay; where many fishing boats and fisherman reside. In this island is the watch-house general; which is a place fo the greatest profit in the kingdom of Tonqueen: for all trading boats, either to the province of Thanh Hoa or Nghe An, or from the north who must stop here to pay custom, for a large boat about half of the value of a dollar and a half, with some presents for the waiters, the rest proportional; so that the customs of this place cannot yield less than a million of dollars per annum.
As for the ground, it is stony and mountainous, therefore not proper to manure; cattle we saw but few so that rice and other provisions for sustenance, are brought hither from adjacent shore. Some good regulations would make this place plentiful, and with small expense this port may be a good one.
There are only 2-3 marketplaces in the whole kingdom. The Ca-Cho or marketplace is the metropolis of Tonqueen; it is superior to most cities in Asia due to it is populousness; On the first and fifteen of the month, adjacent villages flock together to trade; thus, several of those streets though broad and spacious, are then so crowded that one finds enough to do if he can sometimes advance through the multitude a hundred paces in half an hour. Every different commodity sold in this city is appointed to a particular street, and these streets again allotted to one, two, or m ore villages, the inhabitants whereof are only privileged to keep shops in them, much in the nature of the several companies or corporations in European cities. The courts of the king, general, princes and etc, and high courts of justice are located here. They stand on large tracts of ground; the principal structure makes but a mean appearance, being built of wood, the rest of their houses of bamboos and clay, not well compacted; few of brick except the factories of strangers, which out-vie the rest. Stupendous, indeed, are the triple walls of the old city and palace; for by the ruins they appear to have been strong materials with noble large gates, paved with a king of marbles; the palace have to been about six to seven miles in circumferences; its gates, courts, apartments, testify amply its former pomp and glory. In this city is a quartered militia, to be ready on all occasions; and here is also the king's arsenal for war, seated on the bank of the river, near a sandy island, on which the Thecadaw is kept. The river is called Song Cai or Song Hong (Red River). This river is a exceeding commodious for the city, since all sorts of merchandises are brought hither as to epitome of the kingdom, by an infinite number of boats trading up and down the country; yet they have their houses in their respective Aldeas, and do not live together in their boats as Taverniere reports, but when they are voyaging. (Many of the people choose to live upon the water rather than the land, the rivers are covered with boats that serve as houses, which are very neat and cattle are kept in them).

^^ The city of Cha-Cho (marketplace), the Metropolis of Tonqueen. 1) The King's Aresnal. 2) Sandy Bay Island with the Representation of the Theckydaw. 3)King's Elephant's Stables. 4) The designed English Factory. 5) The Dutch Factory.

Scenes of a King's Funeral in Tonkin

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Can anybody read the descriptions on the image?

Another scene of Tonkin. Too bad I can't find larger picture. I'm asking thewalrus to enlarge it with photoshop.

A military march in Tonkin

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^ It seems that firearm had become a very common weapon in Tonkin in the 17th century. Look in the drawings above, most soldiers in the parade carry arquebuses. No wonder the Europeans write so much about shooting skills of Vietnamese.

This is supposed to be a war ship on the river on Tonkin, drawn by a European, but how come the decors on the ship look so European?

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What are they wearing on their head?

It reminds me of these headdress.

SailorNeptune;

As I found out, the photos I posted on the previous page should not be reliable presentation of clothing of Tonkinese in the 17th century because they were drawn by Tavernier who had never been to Tonkin. He only heard descriptions of Tonkin from his brother and wrote about it in his book.

That's why the clothes feel a little odd (un-oriental) and the architectures also look kind of Western. They are only his imagination of what Tonkin looked like based on the words of his brother. His brother told him it's a big city with many people and such...

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From the research of Trần Quang Đức, author of Ngàn Năm Áo Mũ, commoners of the Lê dynasty wore mostly white and blue robes.

Commoners of the Nguyễn dynasty wore mostly black.

In the Lê dynasty, women let their long hair hang down and wore crowns/hats on their heads. Sometimes, they used a silk robe to cover their hair. They didn't tie their hair up because it was considered immodest. Having flowing long hair was considered beautiful. Palatial maids tie their hair into a bun on top their head.

In the Nguyễn dynasty, commoners tied their hair up, and used a kerchief to secure it, similar to Cham and Indian people.

In the Trần dynasty, people favored short hair because of influence of Buddhism.

@Doraemon
^^ Lol, no wonder those pic look nothing like what was described by Borri.
Here is Samuel Baron's description of the People of Tonqueen (Northern Vietnamese)

Th people of Tonqueen are rather of a working and turbulent spirit, (though cowards) than naturally mild and peaceable; since quiet and concord can hardly be maintained amongst them, without a heavy hand and severity; for they have often conspired and broke out in open rebellion. They are not given much to choler, yet are addicted to the far worse passions of envy and malice, even to an extreme degree. In former times they had in great envy and malice, even to an extreme degree. In former times they had in great esteem the manufactures of strange countries, but now that passion is almost worn out, and only a few Japan cold and silver pieces, and European broad cloth remain at present in request with them. They are not curious to visit other countries, believing they can see none so good as their own, and give no credit to those who have been abroad, when they can relate what they have seen. Their language is full of monosyllables, and sometimes twelve or thirteen things are meant by one word, and have no other distinction, but in their tone, either to pronounce it with a full mouth, heavy accent, pressing or retaining voice, and therefore it is difficult for strangers to attain any perfection therein. Both sexes are well proportioned, rather of small stature and weak constitutions, occasioned, perhaps by their intemperate eating and immoderate sleeping. They are generally of brown complexion, like the Chinese and Japanese, but the better sort,, and women of quality, are almost as fair as the Portuguese and Spaniards. Their noses and faces are not so flat as the Chinese, their hair black, and if long 'tis reckoned an ornament; both men and women, without distinction, wear it down as long as it will grow; but soldiers, when they are in their exercises, and handicrafts-men about their trades, put it up under their caps, or tie it in a great roll on top of their heads. Both boys and girls, when they are past sixteen or seventeen years of age, black their teeth as the Japanese do, and let their nails grow as the Chinese, the longest being accounted the finest, which has place amongst persons of quality and wealth only.
Their habit is long robes, very little differing from those of China, and not at all resembling the Japan garb. They are forbidden by an old tradition the wear of hose or shoes, except the literadoes and those that have taken the degree of Tuncy (or Doctor); however, at present the custom is not observed so strictly as formerly.